Baracoa – Mirror of the Past Written and Photographed by Lusine Stepanian
“A Baracoa me voy, aunque no halla carretera”
– Antonio Machin
It is a place where time stands still. A reflection of the past,
with life in its present. Life seems simple to the foreign eye,
yet poverty has planted moulds into its existence and hope. A
cloud of melancholy floats above the city; yet faces glow with
genuine smiles, homes are filled with love, and streets echo with
music. This is a lieu of confusion rooted in motionless time.
3:45 am - First rooster lets out a crow. It is the beginning
of a new day, proof that Baracoa is alive. The neighbourhood slowly
awakes as the sun rays peak through wooden windows and raindrops
roll over cobblestone streets. Horse carriages stomp through the
town as children promenade to school in their neatly tucked uniforms.
Just two streets away, Baracoa buzzes with Cuban life. Line-ups
begin to form at the bank; families embark mini trucks on their
way to work. Latin rhythms echo through the walls of the local
pizzeria while bici-taxis await their first customer. Even in
a town so small, rich and poor are sadly distinguished. A man
in uniform takes seat to have his shoes polished, while a middle
aged woman wanders the streets begging for soap.
Baracoa was the very first capital of Cuba, founded by Diego
Velazquez in 1511. With the nickname ‘Cuidad Primada’
- First City, it is located in isolation away from the rest of
the country. Its real name deprives from the indigenous Arauaca
language and means “Land of Water’. And indeed, it
is a land where rivers collide into transparent beaches and waterfalls
flow through lush nature reserves. This is the land where Christopher
Columbus stepped foot on his first journey. He fell in love with
its untouched beauty and described it as “The most beautiful
place in the world.” Sadly, once it was discovered
that Santiago de Cuba will be a better capital, Baracoa became
forgotten.
Located in the north-eastern tip of Cuba, the town had no means
of transportation until 1960, when the first road, Carretera de
La Farola, was built. To this day, it is still the only road to
Baracoa and is considered one of the best engineering works in
Cuba. In the bars, local musicians still sing the nostalgic song
“A Baracoa me voy, aunque no halla carretera”
– I’m going to Baracoa, although there is no highway.
A town made for artists. Here you are inspired
to play music, to write, to paint, to sing and dance, and simply
to walk and think. Many interesting people have lived in Baracoa.
Miguel Angel Castro Machado is one of them - a local poet and
historian. He founded the Matachin Museum which now holds an exhibit
about the Bacaroan history, legends and myths. His writing depicts
a poetic expression of the friendly people, the vibrant art and
the lush nature that is Baracoa. His book, “Baracoa:
Where Cuba Begins” contains illustrations by talented
local artists and poems from some of the most intellectual characters
of Cuba.
Despite its visible damage from hurricanes and poverty the town
has remained alive - thanks to the local musicians. They personally
state “without music we would not survive”.
When the sun sets, the town fills with live Latin rhythms projecting
from local venues such as Casa de la Trova, Casa de la Musica
and La Terraza. Music reaches the waters until the town falls
asleep. Its echo follows through the little alleys and out into
the ocean. On one side of the city the waves hit the shore, on
the other the guiro collides with the clave.
Baracoa - a town where pain and happiness clash into one. A prime
example of life that shines through the cracks of its harsh reality.
It believes in all possibilities and preserves happiness through
love, music and its multiplying youth. You are in a town still
relatively undisturbed by tourists. Only the few curious ones
make it this far, and only those will know where Cuba began.
Have you been to Cuba? What is your best
memory? Share your thoughts in the comments below.
Lusine Stepanian
is The Compass editor. Having caught the travel bug while
living in Europe, she is dedicating her next few years to
exploring more of Latin America with trips planned to Bolivia
and Cuba.
