Syria - Azem Palace of
Damascus Written and Photographed by Tegan Zimmerman
"No recorded event has occurred in the world but Damascus
was in existence to receive news of it.....There was always a
Damascus." - Mark Twain
A Unique Architectural Gem
Twain’s apt phrase assures Damascus’ place as one
of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited cities, and
boasts a myriad of architectural and cultural styles found in
its mosques, courtyards, bazaars, streets and cafes. One of the
most intriguing of these is the Azem Palace built in typical Damascene
style.
Comprised of several complex buildings, two wings (the harem
and salamlik), courtyards and gardens the Palace is an impressive
sight to take in, so set aside a few hours to do it justice.
The Palace
Built in 1749 by As’ad Pasha al-Azem, the Ottoman governor
of Damascus for 14 years, the Palace is a successful blend of
architecturally extravagant styles. Summoning large amounts of
carpenters and masons, the governor spared little in the construction
of his grand design including diverting water from the Barada
River for his garden and ordering Roman columns from Bosra.
The unique striped stonework, however, is a gem in itself and
arguably the most worthwhile reason to visit. The look, or banding
technique known as ablaq is achieved by alternating layers of
black basalt with limestone and sandstone, and gives this structure
a fascinating black and white decorative appearance.
In the 20th century, unfortunately the palace was sold to the
French and in 1925, during the Syrian revolution, an uprising
lead to the palace being badly damaged by fire. Remarkably however,
the palace has been restored (1945-61; In 1983 the Renovating
Team won the Aga Khan Award for Architecture), and embodies much
of its former glory and now houses the Musuem of Arts of Popular
Traditions.
The palace turned museum invites you first to enter the central
courtyard, home to overhanging vines, serene tree lines and a
charming fountain and pool effectively contrasted with the interior
courtyard which treats visitors to several prominent iwans and
porticos. Off the courtyard are two wings, the most interesting
of which is the family quarters or haramlik.
Once the private space for the family, this area includes the
servant’s quarters, kitchen, and baths. The baths are unusual
because they are a miniature of the city’s public baths.
Each room’s purpose is to show typical Damascene traditions,
including preparation for Hajj, pilgrimage and marriage rituals.
Displays of goods such as jewellery, ceramics and musical instruments
are also shown.
Room features include detailed wood panelling and intricate stone
inlays created by using a technique whereby a pattern is carved
into stone, and the stone is filled with coloured paste. The rooms
also enjoy blue tiling and painstakingly painted ceilings. One
amusing feature is the mannequins are all male, including the
ones used to model the traditional women’s cloths.
In contrast, the salamlik, which is the guest wing is comprised
of formal halls, and large open spaces such as reception areas
with cascading fountains. Cool marble is used here, and traditionally
was where the men would receive guests and conduct business. Everything
here is on a much grander scale, although perhaps, a bit less
personal.
The palace and city itself deserve a visit to witness first hand
what Prophet Mohammed, on a journey from Mecca, once deemed Paradise
(although he refused to enter the city, as he wanted to wait until
he died).
Tegan Zimmerman
is a post graduate of Creative Writing trying to find where
she belongs in society. Living in London she has a passion
for writing and travelling and tries to do as much of both
as she can.
